Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
